A weekend with Dapoli & surrounds

The destination was fixed but the number of people to join the excursion was under dilemma. My friend Ashish – the organiser, called me at least ten times, even before the day we were supposed to leave, just to confirm whether I’ll be a part of the outing; as he made numerous calls to everyone in the friend circle, and most of them said no. But finally his efforts convinced three people, including me, to join the three-day long expedition to Dapoli.

The dates were 25th, 26th and 27th of Dec ’09. It was the year's last long holiday weekend and a celebration time for the Christian community across the world.

On the 25th morning we left at 7.30 sharp and headed towards Panvel, a junction near Mumbai, from where one can lead to NH4 or NH17. We took the latter.

Alas! A grand traffic welcomed us. But our Raju–the driver was smart enough to vroom through the traffic that escorted us till Vadkhal Naka, near Pen.

After that, as expected, the road ahead was descent and the atmosphere, pleasant. There was so much nature around us. Tree-lined highway, paddy fields, hillocks and fresh air, cradled us to enjoy the excursion.

As we reached Loner Phata, we took a right turn and then what we experienced was the changing face of the road. From a wider, smooth and silky path to a narrow, rough and uneven stretch that made us to stop at a Retibunder on the way.

The halt was a good idea, as the whole vicinity had that charm and charisma of being captured through our lenses. I thought I’ll take away this whole experience for the next three days but the path ahead had something else in its plate.

We drove for five minutes and then there was a grand reception by bumpy and potholed ghat road, letting us to experience a rollercoaster ride that we ever had. But fortunately, the surrounds had good things to offer. All around us were green mountains instead of concrete skyscrapers, a stream finding its way through the valley, and the musical sounds of birds instead of the cacophony of the city crowd. All this made our journey absolutely worthwhile.

We reached Dapoli at 2.15pm, late and famished. We stopped at a hotel and greedily ordered local Konkani food. But what was served on our plates was a bolt from the blue, garnished by hotelier’s late service, adding some more wasted time to our planned schedule.

After having that pathetic lunch, we moved on to Brahmanwadi at Dapoli, where we had to stay at Mr. Ravindra Bagul’s house, an ex-Biology professor head, at Pendharkar College.

Once meeting him, we told him about our plan to visit Unhavare, a delightful village famous for its natural hot water spring. But he suggested it’s too far and till the time we’ll reach there, it will be too dark. So it’s better to go to Chandika Devi temple.

The Pandav Era Temple
We reached Goddess Chandika’s temple, late evening. When we got inside, we came across a low darkened passage, which was lighted only with oil lamps. The path reminded me of an underpass decoration, generally done during Ganesha festival in Mumbai. When we saw the deity, we realised that the idol is Swayambhu (formed naturally on its own) and is situated there for years. On enquiry, the priest told us that the temple is Pandav Kaleen (Era) and no light is allowed inside except that of the oil lamps, as the goddess doesn’t like it.

Day 2:
My mobile buzzed at five in the morning and thank goodness, there was no clamour of rickshaws, horns and buses. The only sound that was roaming around was the chirping and singing of birds, which were flying aimlessly with freedom.

As the sun came out, nature showed off its morning course. The sky was filled with crimson colour and a dash of white and grey clouds were interwoven like a wick to be placed in an oil lamp.

We left Mr. Bagul’s house at 7.15am to go to the nearest hot spot - Karde-Murud beach. And in no time a rush of adrenaline started filling my body, as for the first time, I was going to attend a school right in the middle of the ocean - the school of dolphins.

The Ocean School
We reached Karade-Murud within half-an-hour. I thought we’ll be the first to land on the beach but to my surprise, travellers had already entrenched upon.

No doubt I was veritably excited about the boat ride but my feelings were overpowered, when I saw the great Arabian Sea. I took in fresh air, eventually exhaled and then cautiously gazed at the sea. I discovered that the sea was at its best. The mood was serene, the waves were friendly and the breezes were soothing, which pacified my uneasiness to relish the boat ride.
The boat drove at least 4kms and after fifteen minutes ride with the constant company of Seagulls bobbing in the nearby waters, our boat stopped. There was pin-drop silence, as everyone’s eyes were desperately seeking dolphins. And then suddenly someone from behind yelled, ‘I saw the dolphins’. Our eyes popped-out. Seconds later, another dolphin couple bobbed in the huge Arabian Sea, contributing to my adrenaline rush and to my camera lenses.

Back on the shore, countless seashells were awaiting us lying all over like a pantone shades of Photoshop, which gave beach a hue of beige and ecru colours.

The Fisherman’s Harbour
We then moved to Harnai, just 5kms from Karde-Murud. The path to Harnai had a different charm. As we travelled through the narrow stretch, we were flanked by the vast Arabian Sea on one side and the hillocks on the other. When we entered the alleys of fisherman’s village, dried fish odour found its way to our senses through our nostrils.
Looking at the village scenario, we understood that it’s an important fishing village with a natural harbour, where business worth lakhs of rupees is carried out daily. As I took a glance of the whole harbour, I saw, a lot of tiny and big ships were harboured, which took me straight to the past, reminding me of my paper ships that I used to make and play as a child during monsoon.

Ganesha on the Cliff
Anjarle, a beautiful village only 15kms from Harnai, was our next destination. On the way, from the ghat, we were enthralled to sip-in the view of the famous Anjarle beach, whose U-shaped shoreline resembled like a queen’s necklace.

Famous for its ‘Kadyavarcha Ganpati’ (Ganesh situated on a cliff) temple, we came to know that it was constructed circa 1150. The temple’s dome was whitewashed; whose Ganehsa is Ujvya Sondicha (right trunk). People told us that the Ganesha is ‘Jaagruk Daiwat’ (Alive deity), and Navsala Pavnara, the one who responds to the ardent devotee’s distress call.
Taking lord’s benediction, we then took a stroll at a hillock behind the temple, where we came across a surprising fact about Ganesha. We saw footstep of Ganesha (only right foot) inscribed on a rock. Legend has it that Lord Ganesha travelled all the way from the Arabian Sea and settled down at this place centuries ago.

The Swayambu Goddess
Our next stop was Mahalaxmi temple, located at the base of Utambar hill near Kelshi beach. From outside, the dome shaped temple evidently conveyed the influence of the Muslim architectures. Inside, we got to know that the temple is enclosed in a stonewall fortification, whose sanctum lies beneath two huge domes; one can enter the sanctum through three doors. And just like Chandika Devi, the goddess is also Swayambu, whose temples interiors proclaimed the craftsmanship done during the Peshwa regime.

The Blissful Beach
A short drive from Mahalaxmi temple took us to the pristine beach of Kelshi. As we were entering the beach, we received a warm standing ovation from the tall and handsome cypress trees followed by groves carpet that was laid all over on the beach, giving us a feeling of being the most eminent.
The scenario at Kelshi presented an intriguing contrast. Karde-Murud beach was more crowded and dirty, displayed the careless behaviour of tourists, whereas Kelshi was more blissful with countable travellers around, offering ample breathing space to enjoy the last rays of the setting sun. I wished I could’ve spent the whole night lying on the beach but we had already scheduled our third day’s junket.


Day 3:
Finally the last day arrived; filled with memories of the last two days and a spirit to enjoy the remaining hours of the proceeding day. We bid adieu to Mrs. & Mr. Bagul at seven in the morning and then advanced to our next holiday destination - Guhagar.

Traveller’s Favourite
Once reaching Guhagar, we took blessings of Vyadeshwara, an ancient temple of God Shankara, right in the centre of the village and Kuldevta (Family deity) of my friend – Amey, who was a part of this excursion.

Later, we went to the picturesque, charming and the most popular place of Guhagar – its beach. The way to the beach was undoubtedly noteworthy. We passed through the stone-clad fence that protected the betel nut, mango and coconut trees, thus giving the whole vicinity a touch of a paradise.

Kashmiri Ganesha
Experiencing that magical moment, we then drove towards Hedvi, a small village where I had fixed an appointment with my dear god – Lord Ganesha. The temple was nestled amidst greenery, which gave its surrounding a blissful personality. It was one of the most photogenic temples that I’ve ever come across.

Inside, we saw that the Ganesha is Dashabhuj (ten hands) and is carved out of marble, which was brought there all the way from Jammu & Kashmir during the Peshwa rule.

Seaside Deity
Our karavan then progressed towards Velneshwar, a wonderful and clean seaside village that got its name from the famous ancient Shiva temple called Velneshwar, situated right near to the beach. It was Sunday, which is why the temple was flocked by devotees to seek Lord Shiva’s blessing.
Out of the temple, we walked straight towards a restaurant sited next to the beach to savour the delightful cuisine of Konkan – Fish Curry. Unlike the pathetic food we had at Dapoli on day one, the food here was palatable, making us realise that we had spent some of the best moments in the coastal areas of Maharashtra.

Shivaji Returns
Wrapping the so far revelled moments in the by-lanes of my mind, we embarked to our terminus – Shri Samarth Gad at Dervan, an incredible place in Chiplun, where you can watch the entire life history of Chatrapathi Shivaji Maharaj through sculptures. Right from the coronation of Maharaj to the fight with Shahista Khan, you’ll get to see some of the most notable incidences of Shivaji’s life through carvings. It’s a must visit place.

When we came out, I saw that through the twilight, the family of stars were slowly emerging; informing me that time has come to return to my dwelling place. The occurrence told me, how the days went by like a blink of an eye. But every moment passed by engraved some of the most enticing places in my heart. Inviting me to experience the land of beauties once again!

Comments

  1. My favourite is the image with bubbles. Think I have told you that before.

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  2. Ya Sourav... in fact u were the first to appreciate that pic:)Thx:)

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  3. hey, that very well thought article..!! my congratulation... ;0)

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  4. Wow, vinay ...i not only appreciate the way u narrated the whole excursion of yours' but what is beautiful about the whole thing is the lovely pictures and the words that are used to describe the scene....on visualizing the same...i just am left with a lovely smile on my face...amazing shine in the eyes and an urge to may be visit the place someday...very good work...keep it up...i loved each and every picture..splly the bubble thing....

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  5. Thx a ton Sulo... vil try to post more like this in near future :)

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