Reis Magos - The Silent Citadel

You must have come across the word 'strategically located'. So, what does it mean exactly? Being a copywriter, I've often used this term to describe the location of my real estate client's project. So that customers think about it and decide to buy the property. But I realised its real meaning when I recently visited Reis Magos - a citadel that was structured four centuries ago.

It was afternoon when I arrived. The sun was at its peak. It was emitting the utmost energy and soaking up last month’s drizzle. But then the balmy breeze was fighting to maintain the temperature. It seemed that an invisible war was happening between the two vital elements. Fortunately, the troop of breeze won and allowed us to take a sigh of relief.

History says that it was Yusuf Adil Shah of Bijapur, who conceived and rendered the idea of constructing the fort in 1493. But eventually, with the arrival of Portuguese, its troop headed by Afonso de Albuquerque, strategically conquered the bastion. And then little time they took to Christianize it to Reis Magos, meaning the three wise men from the holy bible.

Settled on the banks of the photogenic village called Reis Magos, the fort encompasses features which any resort owner would like to offer. Made open to the public after carrying out restoration work for five consecutive years, it has now regained the old charm and is impressing many.

At the entrance, towards my left, I came across a signboard that read 'Solitary Confinement Cell', which indicated that what was once the defence outpost for the port town of Old Goa, later became a jail for small-time convicts and freedom fighters of the Goa liberation movement. Today, the confinement is not solitary anymore, as the masonry that covered the river view went under the hammer years ago, making it rectangular shaped, thus re-inviting the wonderful view of river Mandovi merging with the Arabian Sea.

Inside the fort, there are two renovated white-washed buildings. The first structure, which is situated to the right of the main entrance, has typical Catholic house entry stylings; grand staircases with curvaceous columns, adorning the balcões (covered porches) of the structure. A witness of the numerous attacks during the colonial era, today its interior walls showcase some vital realities of the bastion through photographs and illustrations, supported by invaluable literature.

The second structure has a grand sala (main hall), with seasoned wood-striped huge doors and transparent glass windows. At present, it plays host to the glorious illustrations of Goa's world-renowned cartoonist - Mario Miranda. Its walls portray the then Goan life, its sister counterpart - Bombay, and also those places where Mario visited. These nostalgic moments are framed beautifully and month-wise.   

The few moments inside the art gallery were astonishing and remarkable. Enjoying the creations I stepped out, and to my surprise, my whole experience got rejuvenated, as I came across a panoramic view of the Mandovi stretch. It travelled beyond the Miramar beach and ended at a hillock bearing the weight of governor’s bungalow. It seemed that one of Mario Miranda’s creations is breathing life in real.

At every vantage point, the laterite fortress is guarded by cylindrical watch turrets and cannons mounted on wheels, which once greatly proved to be linchpin during the wars against various local rulers - the Sultan of Bijapur or the Marathas. Now, they serve as a point of attractions, as without them the presence of the garrison is completely incomplete. The turrets are now carved by the name of careless visitors, while the revamped cannons still carry the engraved insignia of Estado da Índia Portuguesa (State of Portuguese India). 

As soon as the Portugal's started making a stronghold in Bardez and Salcette (districts in North Goa), they started rooting their beliefs and religion in the soil of Goa. They started collapsing the local deity’s temples and in full swing, they designed basilicas and cathedrals. One of them is the beautiful Reis Magos Church, the first in Bardez, which was built next to the centuries-old citadel.
 
When I stood in one of the watch turrets facing the landscape, it revealed that it was keeping an eye on the wonderfully structured Reis Magos Church. Constructed in the year 1555 and dedicated to St. Jerome, historians unearthed that the church was built on the ruins of a Hindu temple; as two typical symbols of the Hindu Vijayanagar temple architecture - bas relief lion figures can be seen on the flanks, at the start of the steps climbing to the Church. 

Like most of the churches, this one too has a cemetery where some famous personalities and two Viceroys of Portuguese Era were buried. One of the tombs is that of Dom Luis de Ataide, who earned fame all over the Portuguese empire for defending courageously the Goan colony. With a force of 700 men, for ten long months, he managed to keep 10,000 Muslim attackers supported by 2000 elephants at bay. Truly, a historic legend. 

History will always be intriguing. Resting in its heart, Reis Magos is now living with innumerable legends; still waiting to be explored. The citadel that once smelled blood is now inviting everyone to love its beauty, silently.